Wine lacking character

Dr. Debs discussed the identify theft of wines here highlighting the tastes of three wines not matching the characteristics of varietals indicated. Although the wines discussed in that post were all imperfect, at least they were enjoyable. However, what about wines ‘lacking character', wines that taste like a solution mixture of grape concentrate and flavor enhancers with alcohol injected that make you say ‘blah’? I am sure many of you have encountered such wines in the past.

This is precisely the case of the 2004 Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon. While it is a drinkable plonk, it is nowhere close to a Cabernet Sauvignon that can clearly identify its character in a blind tasting.

ABV: 14.5%; Price $7-$10 (readily available nationwide)

Tasting Notes:

Color: Dark garnet, almost blackish.

Nose: Initial smell of disinfectant from a hospital. Fruit is quite muted. As wine opens, aroma is dominated by raisin with notes of burnt tobacco.

Palate: Fairly one dimensional, dominated by extracted black currant flavor. Mild tannins emerged after 15 minutes in the glass. Very low acidity, not much structure and quite alcoholic.

Body: Medium to full, soft but quite creamy.

Finish: Short with black fruit as primary flavor.

Comments:
I have tasted the Paddock Shiraz from the same producer and thought it has a good QPR value. At this price point, there are wines of much better quality and more precise varietal characteristics than the '04 Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon out there.

Many factors contribute to a wine's character. The grapes of this Cab is source from the Breede River Valley appellation (as in the Shiraz). Why does the Shiraz smell/taste better than the Cab? Is it due to the ripeness of the fruit... Is it because the Cab has higher residual sugar / lower acid content? (Shiraz: RS 2.6 g/l, Acid 5.9 g/l; Cab: RS 3.9. Acid 5.5 g/l)... Is it related to different winemaking techniques? Or is this wine plainly not up to par?

Who knows?

2005 Ayama Chenin Blanc, South Africa

Ayama Chenin Blanc is produced by Slent Frams of Voor-Paardeberg, South Africa. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc from Paarl. The grape is harvested at February 2005 and bottled at August 2005. The soil where the grapes are grown, Pedeberg Mountain, is composed of sandstone, granite and shale. according to the producer's information, this 2005 Ayama Chenin Blanc carries a 14.72% abv and contains 1.87 gram of sugar per liter.

Tasting Notes:

Color: Pale straw.

Nose: Grassy and faint pear. Hint of citrus.

Palate: More grassy and pear flavor. Mid palate is made up of lemon, apple (?) and flower notes. Fairly crisp.

Body: Light.

Finish: Clean and dry. Slightly bitter.

Comment: Good QPR consider the price paid ($7). Personally, I prefer Chenin Blanc from Saumur and Savennières which has more minerality. 14% alcohol is a bit too high as good food wine, but nonetheless, this wine match well with a dinner of roasted hake and garden salad.

Refrigerated overnight. Served with a dish of stirred-fried green beans, chicken stripes, onion and celery. This alcohol is is noticeably receded and grassy nose less dominant, but the mouth feel remains the same. On palate, in addition to the pears, it becomes more floral with even a hint of honey.

2004 Excelsior Paddock Shiraz

Wine maker's notes:
This Shiraz comes from well drained lime rich land on which the De Wets once raised their horses. This wine is deep burgundy red in color with inviting aromas of vanilla and mocha. The palate rewards with lingering flavors of liquorice and ripe black cherries, supported by soft tannins reminiscent of the fragrance of the Orient.

Tasting notes:
1st day:
Nose: Oak, dark fruit, vanilla, initial heat.
Palate: Simple jammy dark fruit, cherry, licorice, coffee.
Body: Medium to Full
Finish: Medium/short finish. Light tannat present.
Acidity: Decent.

2nd day:
Nose: alcohol smooths out. Oak and vanilla subsided. Fruit slightly muted.
Palate: less jammy, more cherry notes. Dark fruit persistent as 1st day. Still drinks well.
Body: Medium to Full
Finish: same as 1st day.
Acidity: Similar as 1st day.

General comment:
This wine hit you in the face with fast jabs of high alcohol content (14.5%). Rich and quite smooth. Typical feel of new world Shiraz. Not a bad QPR for $7
Wonder how this wine settles in 1 or 2 years?